Bobby BugsLong Island Pest Control
Mice and Rodents

How Much Does a Rat Exterminator Cost on Long Island? What Sets the Price

Reviewed by William "Willy" Vizcarrondo, NYS DEC Certified Commercial Pesticide Applicator C1825832. Updated September 23, 2026.

Quick answer

What a rat job costs on Long Island depends on the size of the property, how established the burrow system is, whether it is an apartment or a single family house, how many locked exterior bait stations the yard needs, how much sealing the structure needs, and how many follow-up visits it takes to reach zero activity. National cost guides do not match Long Island reality, partly because many companies bill the inspection, the trapping, the sealing, and every follow-up as separate line items. Bobby Bugs quotes every rat job in writing, for free, before any work begins, the invoice matches the quote, and the work carries a 60-day written guarantee.

Why does rat work cost more than mouse work?

Because rats live outside and dig. Cornell's IPM program says Norway rats prefer to burrow in soil, and UC IPM says the burrows are found along building foundations, beneath rubbish or woodpiles, and around gardens. UC IPM also warns that Norway rats can undermine building foundations and slabs with their burrowing. So a rat job has an outdoor component a mouse job usually does not: finding the burrows, treating the yard, and closing the bigger gaps. Missouri Extension says a rat can get in through any opening larger than half an inch, and UC IPM says rats can chew through plastic, foam, wood, and caulk, so the sealing is metal and cement.

They also multiply. Missouri Extension says female rats typically have litters of six to twelve young and four to six litters a year.

What is included in a rat job?

Inspection. Inside for droppings, rub marks, and runs, and outside for burrows, entry points, and what is feeding them. NYC's health department describes the signs: greasy rub marks along walls and worn paths in the grass, because rats run the same route repeatedly.

Trapping indoors. Snap traps on the runs they already use. The CDC recommends traditional snap traps, placed with the baited end against the wall so the trap forms a T with it. No poison indoors; Connecticut DEEP's warning is that poisoned rodents may die in inaccessible areas and cause odor and secondary pest problems.

Locked bait stations outdoors. Tamper-resistant stations on the travel ways and near burrows, which UC IPM says is where they belong, serviced by a licensed applicator per the label. Illinois DPH notes tamper-resistant stations safeguard people, pets, and other animals, and the EPA requires them wherever children, pets, or non-target wildlife have access.

Exclusion. Gaps sealed with quarter inch hardware cloth, sheet metal, or cement, the materials Connecticut DEEP and Kentucky both list as permanent. UC IPM says all holes larger than a quarter inch should be sealed to exclude both rats and mice.

Follow-ups until activity reads zero, and a 60-day written guarantee.

Do rat bait stations actually work?

Yes, on the routes rats already use. UC IPM's instruction is to place all bait stations in rat travel ways or near their burrows and harborage. A station dropped in the middle of the lawn does nothing. Stations along the foundation, at the burrow, and on the fence line where the rub marks are do the job.

The poison inside is the reason the station is locked. UC IPM notes that secondary poisoning of pets and wildlife is possible if they eat rat carcasses, and the EPA's safety review says non-target wildlife and pets can be poisoned by eating rodents that consumed certain poisons. Locked stations, label rates, and a licensed applicator are how that risk is managed. Loose consumer poison in a garage is the dangerous version.

Can I get rid of rats myself?

You can trap, and you should seal, but the burrow system is the hard part. Missouri Extension notes rats are normally nocturnal and wary, so if you commonly see them during the day the population is probably large. UC IPM says exclusion, building them out, is the most successful and longest-lasting strategy, and that if sanitation is not maintained the benefits of other measures are lost and rats quickly return. The DIY jobs that work are the small ones: one rat, one obvious gap. An established burrow line under a deck is a program, not a weekend.

What attracts rats to a Long Island property?

Food, water, and cover. UC IPM says to make sure all garbage receptacles have tight-fitting covers and to remove fallen fruit and nuts. Illinois DPH says to store bulk foods, bird seed, and dry pet food in metal cans with tight-fitting lids. The CDC says to keep compost bins at least 100 feet from the house and to move woodpiles 100 feet or more from the home and raise the wood at least a foot off the ground. On a Long Island lot that may mean as far as the property allows, but the principle holds: no seed on the ground, no open trash, no woodpile against the siding.

How do you avoid overpaying a rat exterminator?

Ask for the scope in writing. The three patterns that cost people money: a per-visit charge with no end point, a poison-only plan that never seals anything so the rats are replaced as fast as they are removed, and a verbal quote that grows on the invoice. A real rat quote lists the trapping, the stations, the sealing, and the number of follow-ups, and it is signed before anyone sets a trap. Ours is free, in writing, and the invoice matches it.

Frequently asked questions

Is it worth getting an exterminator for rats?

Yes. Kentucky's extension notes rats gnaw through utility pipes and electrical wiring, causing fires and flooding, and UC IPM says burrows can undermine foundations and slabs. A program that traps, seals, and baits outside ends it; one step alone does not.

How do exterminators get rid of rats?

Snap traps indoors on the runs, locked bait stations outdoors on the travel ways, exclusion with hardware cloth and cement, and follow-ups until activity is zero.

Does seeing one rat mean I have an infestation?

Take it seriously. Missouri Extension says rats are nocturnal and wary, so a rat seen in daylight usually means a large population.

How can I tell rats from mice?

Droppings. Kentucky says Norway rat droppings are about three quarters of an inch, capsule shaped with blunt ends, and mouse droppings are an eighth to a quarter inch. Rats also burrow outdoors and travel along foundations and pipes.

Are rat bait stations safe for kids and pets?

Locked tamper-resistant stations serviced by a licensed applicator per the label are the safe version. Illinois DPH says they safeguard people, pets, and other animals. Loose poison is not safe.

What does the 60-day rat guarantee cover?

If rat activity returns within 60 days of the completed job, we come back and re-treat at no charge.

Related reading

Sources: UC IPM, Rats; UC IPM, Rats (Home and Landscape); CDC, Trap Up; CDC, Seal Up; NYC Health, Rats: Information for Tenants and Property Owners; Cornell NYS IPM, Mouse and Rat Biology and Behavior; University of Missouri Extension, Controlling Rats; University of Kentucky, Rodent Control; Illinois Department of Public Health, Norway Rats; Connecticut DEEP, Rodent Management; EPA, Restrictions on Rodenticide Products; EPA, Rodent Control Pesticide Safety Review.

Still not sure? Call (516) 509-6001 and we'll tell you what you're dealing with.

Back to all guides

This article is general pest information for Long Island homeowners, not a diagnosis of your specific situation. Pest behavior varies by home, season, and species, and every job is quoted in writing before any work begins. Pesticide applications are performed by licensed New York State applicators in accordance with label requirements.

Call for a Free QuoteFree Quote