Do spotted lanternflies bite or sting?
No. Penn State says they cannot bite or sting and feed only on plant sap.
Reviewed by William "Willy" Vizcarrondo, NYS DEC Certified Commercial Pesticide Applicator C1825832. Updated September 23, 2026.
Quick answer
Getting rid of spotted lanternflies takes three things working together: killing the nymphs and adults you can see, treating the host trees and exterior surfaces they keep returning to, and destroying egg masses between fall and spring so next year starts smaller. Stomping helps, and New York State asks you to do it, but it is not control. Penn State puts an egg mass at an average of 30 to 50 eggs, and Cornell says a female lays one or two of them, so every mass you miss in the fall is a new crowd next May.
Because they are new here and nothing eats enough of them. The DEC says spotted lanternfly was first discovered in the United States in Pennsylvania in 2014, and that New York's first established population was found on Staten Island in August 2020. The state Department of Agriculture and Markets now lists Long Island among the places they are found. Penn State's management guide states that there are currently no known natural enemies expected to significantly reduce populations in the United States.
They also travel with us. The DEC says they spread primarily through human activity, laying eggs on vehicles, firewood, outdoor furniture, and stone. Their favorite host is tree of heaven, but the DEC notes they feed on more than 70 plant species including grapevine, maple, walnut, and fruit trees.
No. Penn State says they cannot bite or sting; they feed on plant sap through a straw-like mouthpart. Cornell says the same. The harm is to plants and to surfaces.
Sap feeding and the mess that follows. The DEC explains that they excrete a liquid waste called honeydew that builds up under plants and encourages black sooty mold. Penn State says honeydew is attractive to ants, wasps, bees, and other sugar-loving insects, and that sooty mold stains tree trunks, decks, patios, and vehicles. Cornell adds outdoor equipment and decking to the list.
Most healthy trees survive it. Penn State reports heavy feeding has contributed to the death of grapevines and black walnut saplings but that it is not known to directly kill most other plants. Penn State's FAQ is also clear that they do not cause structural damage to buildings. The problem for a Long Island homeowner is a deck you cannot sit on and a car you cannot park under the maple.
Contact kills the ones you hit; residual products keep working. Penn State's guide says residual activity depends on the product and can run from 0 to 14 days, while systemic treatments in the tree can last several months. That difference is why a treatment on the host trees and the surfaces they land on outlasts anything sprayed from a bottle at the ones you see.
Skip the home remedies. Penn State warns that dish detergent sprays on plants on a sunny day can injure the plant by burning its leaves, and may not be effective in the first place.
Look for a gray putty smear about an inch long. The DEC describes egg masses as approximately 1 inch long and brownish gray, and Cornell says they resemble a splotch of mud. Cornell puts egg laying at September through November or until the first killing freeze, and the masses go on tree trunks, stone, outdoor furniture, fence posts, grills, and the undersides of anything flat.
Scraping them off is not enough. Penn State says egg masses scraped to the ground can still hatch. Scrape them into a bag or container of rubbing alcohol or hand sanitizer, or smash them thoroughly. Cornell's advice on timing: late fall, after the adults are killed by freezing temperatures and before hatch in May, is the time to find and destroy them.
Match the life cycle. Cornell says hatching begins in May, first stage nymphs run May until July, later nymphs into mid-August, and adults begin to appear in July, with one generation per year. Penn State says adults stay active until hard freezes kill them in the fall. So: nymph treatment on host trees in late spring, adult treatment through late summer and fall, and egg mass work from November to April.
Host tree and surface treatment. We identify the trees they are feeding on, tree of heaven first, then maples and others, and treat the trunks and the exterior surfaces they keep landing on with labeled residual products.
Egg mass sweep. On fall and winter visits we scrape and destroy egg masses on trunks, stone, and outdoor items.
Free estimate, no guarantee. Spotted lanternfly gets a free estimate and a written quote. There is no guarantee on lanternfly treatment, because they fly in from every neighboring property, and we tell you that before you book.
No. Penn State says they cannot bite or sting and feed only on plant sap.
Contact kills the ones you reach, and the state asks you to crush them. Lasting control comes from residual treatment on host trees and surfaces, which Penn State says can work for up to 14 days for contact products and months for systemics.
Soap sprays can injure plants, per Penn State, and may not be effective. Neither leaves any residual.
About an inch long, brownish gray, like a smear of dried mud, per the DEC and Cornell. Scrape them into alcohol or smash them; Penn State says scraped masses on the ground can still hatch.
No structural damage, per Penn State's FAQ. The damage is honeydew and sooty mold on decks, patios, cars, and outdoor furniture.
Adults are killed by hard freezes in fall, per Penn State. The eggs overwinter and hatch in May, per Cornell.
Related reading
Sources: NYSDEC, Spotted Lanternfly; NYS Department of Agriculture and Markets, Spotted Lanternfly; Cornell NYS IPM, Spotted Lanternfly Biology and Lifecycle; Cornell NYS IPM, Spotted Lanternfly Management; Cornell NYS IPM, Spotted Lanternfly Damage; Penn State Extension, Spotted Lanternfly Management Guide; Penn State Extension, Spotted Lanternfly FAQ; Penn State Extension, Avoid Home Remedies for Spotted Lanternfly; Penn State Extension, Spotted Lanternfly Egg Masses; USDA APHIS, Spotted Lanternfly.
Still not sure? Call (516) 509-6001 and we'll tell you what you're dealing with.
This article is general pest information for Long Island homeowners, not a diagnosis of your specific situation. Pest behavior varies by home, season, and species, and every job is quoted in writing before any work begins. Pesticide applications are performed by licensed New York State applicators in accordance with label requirements.